Kitchen cabinets cost $160 to $380 per linear foot installed for stock and semi-custom options, or $3,200 to $7,600 for a typical 20-linear-foot kitchen. Custom cabinets run $500 to $1,200 per linear foot. Those numbers move significantly based on box construction, door style, and whether you hire a contractor or install yourself. Here is exactly what drives the price at each tier.
Price Range by Cabinet Type
The cabinet market splits into three tiers: stock, semi-custom, and custom. Each tier reflects a different tradeoff between lead time, fit, and construction quality. The price difference between stock and custom is not primarily about materials — it is about who builds the box, how it is built, and how long you wait for it.
| Cabinet Type | Cost per Linear Foot | Full Kitchen (20 LF) | Lead Time | Who It Is For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stock (RTA/pre-assembled) | $80–$180 | $1,600–$3,600 | In stock / 1–2 weeks | Budget remodels, rentals, flips |
| Semi-custom | $150–$380 | $3,000–$7,600 | 4–8 weeks | Most homeowners doing a real remodel |
| Custom | $500–$1,200+ | $10,000–$24,000+ | 8–16 weeks | High-end remodels, non-standard layouts |
Stock cabinets from major retailers (IKEA SEKTION, Home Depot Hampton Bay, Lowe’s Diamond Now) sit at the low end of the stock tier — $80 to $130 per linear foot installed. RTA (ready-to-assemble) cabinets from online suppliers like Lily Ann Cabinets or Cabinets To Go land in the $100 to $180 range installed, with better box construction than big-box stock. Semi-custom lines from KraftMaid, Merillat, or Aristokraft average $200 to $300 per linear foot installed in most markets.
For a detailed breakdown of how RTA compares to semi-custom on actual construction quality, see the drawer base vs door cabinet guide — box construction is the same variable that separates budget from mid-range across both types.
What Drives the Price Up or Down
Five factors account for 90% of the price variation within any given cabinet tier. Understanding them lets you make deliberate tradeoffs instead of paying for upgrades that do not affect what you actually care about.
1. Box Construction
The cabinet box is plywood or particleboard. Plywood boxes cost 15 to 20% more than particleboard and last significantly longer — especially near sinks and dishwashers where moisture is a constant factor. Particleboard swells when it gets wet and does not recover. I have pulled out 10-year-old particleboard sink bases that looked fine from the outside and were structurally compromised inside. Spend the extra $15 to $25 per cabinet on plywood boxes. It is the one upgrade that pays off in every kitchen.
2. Door Style
Shaker doors are the least expensive because they are the simplest to mill. Five-piece raised panel doors cost 10 to 25% more. Inset doors (where the door sits flush inside the face frame) add 20 to 30% to the cabinet price because the tolerances are tighter and the installation is slower. Glass-front doors add $40 to $120 per door depending on glass type and frame style.
3. Finish Type
Painted finishes cost more than stained finishes because paint shows imperfections that stain hides. A flawless painted finish requires more prep, more coats, and slower production. White painted cabinets are the most popular finish in the US market and also the most expensive within any given line. For what happens to white painted cabinets over time, the white cabinet yellowing guide covers the four causes and how to prevent them before you commit to white.
4. Hardware Included vs Separate
Stock cabinets almost never include pulls or knobs. Budget $3 to $8 per cabinet for basic hardware, or $15 to $40 per piece for solid brass or stainless pulls. A 20-cabinet kitchen runs $60 to $800 in hardware alone. Soft-close hinge upgrades add $4 to $12 per door — worth every dollar for households with children.
5. Interior Fittings and Rollouts
A base cabinet with rollout shelves costs $80 to $150 more than the same cabinet with a fixed shelf. Full-extension drawer slides (Blum Tandem Plus 563H is the industry benchmark at $45 to $65 per pair) cost more than the 3/4-extension slides that ship in most stock cabinets. Pull-out trash inserts run $80 to $180 installed. These upgrades add up fast but make a real daily-use difference in a working kitchen.
Hidden Costs Most Homeowners Miss
The per-linear-foot number looks manageable until you add everything else. These are the costs that blow budgets on nearly every kitchen remodel I have seen.
| Hidden Cost Item | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Delivery and freight | $150–$400 | Online RTA suppliers charge separately; big-box includes it |
| Fillers and moldings | $200–$600 | Crown molding, light rail, scribe strips, end panels |
| Old cabinet removal/disposal | $200–$500 | Contractor charges; dumpster rental if DIY |
| Countertop (not included in cabinet price) | $40–$120/sq ft | Quartz averages $75–$100/sq ft installed |
| Backsplash tile and labor | $15–$40/sq ft | Often done after cabinets are in |
| Plumbing reconnection | $150–$400 | Licensed plumber to reconnect sink supply and drain |
| Electrical rough-in changes | $200–$600 | If outlet locations change with new layout |
| Touch-up paint/caulk | $50–$150 | Always needed; never in the original quote |
A realistic total for a 20-linear-foot semi-custom kitchen remodel — cabinets, countertops, delivery, installation, hardware, moldings, plumbing reconnect, and disposal — runs $12,000 to $22,000 in most US markets. Cabinet materials are typically 35 to 45% of that total. Labor is 20 to 30%. Countertops are 15 to 25%.
DIY vs Contractor Installation Cost
Cabinet installation labor runs $50 to $120 per linear foot in most US markets, or $1,000 to $2,400 for a 20-linear-foot kitchen. That is real money to save — but only if you have the right tools, a helper for the heavy boxes, and the patience to level each cabinet carefully. One cabinet out of level forces every subsequent cabinet in the run to match it, and the countertop fabricator charges $150 to $300 to template a run that is not level.
| Factor | DIY Installation | Contractor Installation |
|---|---|---|
| Labor cost | $0 (your time) | $50–$120/linear foot |
| Tool investment | $200–$400 if you own nothing | Included |
| Time | 2–3 days | 1–2 days |
| Risk of error | Medium (level errors, screw splits) | Low (warranty typically included) |
| Best for | Stock/RTA cabinets, simple layouts | Semi-custom, complex layouts, L or U shapes |
DIY makes clear sense for straight-run layouts with stock or RTA cabinets. For L-shaped and U-shaped kitchens with corners, a first-time installer can easily spend a full day on the corner unit alone. Contractor installation makes sense for semi-custom or custom cabinets — the cost of one installation error on a $400-per-cabinet box exceeds the labor savings quickly. For the full DIY installation sequence, the base cabinet installation guide covers every step with exact tools and screw specs.
How to Save Without Sacrificing Quality
The biggest savings in a cabinet remodel come from the same three decisions, every time.
- Keep the existing layout. Moving a sink costs $500 to $1,500 in plumbing. Moving a gas range costs $300 to $800. A layout that uses existing rough-in locations saves more than any cabinet grade swap.
- Choose RTA over big-box stock. RTA cabinets from suppliers like Lily Ann Cabinets, Wholesale Cabinets, or Cabinetsnow ship plywood-box construction at $100 to $160 per linear foot — better quality than Home Depot stock at a similar or lower price. The tradeoff is assembly time (45 to 90 minutes per cabinet).
- Upgrade selectively. Buy plywood boxes, stock door style, and stock finish — but upgrade to soft-close hinges and full-extension drawer slides. These are the three components you touch every day. They are worth the premium. Crown molding, glass doors, and decorative end panels are the components you stop seeing after 30 days. Skip them unless you have the budget.
- Get three quotes on installation. Labor prices vary 40 to 60% between contractors in the same market. The low quote is not always the wrong choice — check reviews and ask for a reference on a completed kitchen install, not just general renovation work.
For countertop pairing decisions that fit each cabinet budget tier, the cabinet and countertop color combinations guide covers which materials make sense at each price point.
FAQ
How much do kitchen base cabinets cost per linear foot?
Stock base cabinets run $80 to $180 per linear foot installed. Semi-custom base cabinets cost $150 to $380 per linear foot installed. Custom base cabinets start at $500 per linear foot and go up from there. Upper cabinets typically cost 10 to 20% less per linear foot than base cabinets of the same line.
Is it cheaper to buy RTA cabinets or cabinets from a big-box store?
RTA (ready-to-assemble) cabinets from online suppliers are often 15 to 25% cheaper than comparable big-box stock cabinets, with better box construction — most RTA lines use plywood boxes versus the particleboard found in big-box entry-level lines. The tradeoff is assembly time and no in-store sample to inspect before ordering.
How much does it cost to replace kitchen cabinets in a 10×10 kitchen?
The kitchen industry uses a standard 10×10 kitchen (two 10-foot walls, 20 linear feet total) as a pricing benchmark. Stock cabinets in a 10×10 kitchen cost $1,600 to $3,600 for materials only. Semi-custom runs $3,000 to $7,600. Add $1,000 to $2,400 for professional installation and $2,000 to $4,000 for countertops to get a realistic total.
What is the most expensive part of a kitchen cabinet remodel?
In most mid-range kitchen remodels, cabinets are the largest single line item at 35 to 45% of total project cost. Countertops are second at 15 to 25%. Labor is third at 20 to 30%. Custom or semi-custom cabinets with complex door styles and painted finishes can push the cabinet share to 50% of total project cost.
Should I buy cabinets or have them custom built?
Stock and semi-custom cabinets fit 90% of kitchens. Custom cabinets are worth the $500-plus per linear foot premium only when your layout has non-standard dimensions (ceilings over 10 feet, angled walls, structural columns inside the cabinet run) or when the design requires specific wood species or finish that semi-custom lines do not offer. Most homeowners who think they need custom do not.
